Tag Archives: worth another visit

We’re Number One: Published on Main

Being named Canada’s Best comes with a lot of new expectations and pressure! Wicca and I enjoyed our visit to Published on Main last summer (4-part recap on Instagram here, here, here, and here), and I hoped to show a small group of friends a bit of that same excitement. For the most part, this was a good visit with attentive but not overbearing or rushed service, and a slightly lagging kitchen at times, but being named #1 you expect every dish on the menu to be firing on all cylinders…

You’d think that after winning Canada’s 100 Best, that Published would be packed to the gills, especially on the weekends. While reservations are indeed booked solid for the next couple months, they do leave a portion of the restaurant open for walk-ins. We were able to easily get a table for 5 at 5:00pm (opening time) on a Friday after they seated the groups that did have resos. And since this is Vancouver after all, I imagine that you’d have little trouble getting in on weekdays, especially at off-peak hours.

We sat at one of the small round 4-tops near the front. It was comfortable enough for the five of us because we’re small people 😅. Our server smartly paced our dishes so that no more than a couple dishes were on the table at one time.

I’m always open for skin/orange! 2020 d.b. Schmitt Frei Korper Kultur Weiss ($16) was dry, fruity, and crushable yet complex.

A friend’s PG-13 ($11) non-alcoholic cocktail made with pineapple, mango, star anise shrub, and egg white.

Roasted Fiddleheads ($21) with a black sesame gomae and toasted hemp hearts. Good but not that exciting. I could’ve used more of that black sesame stuff though!

[Someone DMed me saying that Burdock & Co’s fiddlehead dish is much better 😉.]

Brussels Sprouts ($18) with charred brussels sprouts, “pecan tasty paste”, apple, and more pecans on top. This one pleased everyone thanks to the “tasty paste”, which looked like refriend beans and had a similar texture. The brussels sprouts were shredded. The apple element did not register, so I’m not sure where it was supposed to be. The char was also on the light side… I know this isn’t Crowbar (RIP). Despite those niggles, this was still a delicious, crowd-pleasing dish.

Tasty paste is the new Soylent Brown.

Æbleskiver ($18 for 3, we added 2 more). These are savoury Danish donuts stuffed with stewed herbs and served with fresh herb emulsion. The pan used to make these looks like a Japanese takoyaki pan ⁠— in fact the process of making these is almost the same, down to turning the balls with sticks.

Tastes like a deep fried pancake. Firmly savoury territory. In addition to the herbs, there were pine nuts and goji berries inside. The fresh herb emulsion tasted green (herby & chlorophylly) but while nicely thick, it only had light impact on the palate. Still, a fun and tasty dish.

Four Winds Saison (6.5%) – $7 for 10 oz. Restaurant beer pricing is always 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑 haha……sigh…

Green Harissa Cauliflower ($19) with raisin & caper condiment (hidden in this photo).

Another hit, especially cuz of the raisin & caper condiment hidden underneath the well-roasted cauliflower ⁠— they might’ve even just deep fried the cauliflower??? Beautiful colour on it, regardless. The green harissa was a great element too.

Is it me, or have the dishes here become really edited or stripped down since when they first opened? I love it when every element serves a purpose and doesn’t fight or mask other elements, but some dishes can get precariously close to “meh” (e.g. the fiddleheads dish). This cauliflower dish, however, is everything it needs to be.

Chicken Fried Maitake ($22) with garlic scape ranch. A killer dish I also had last year, which was a bit too salty then but is perfectly seasoned now. One of those perfect dishes for an elevated restaurant ⁠— uses fancier, more chic and special ingredients but pays off in a delicious and accessible way.

Mortadella Stuffed Morels ($30) with “turbo cheese sauce” 🤣. Is that a high performance cheese? (link to Facebook video of Top Chef Canada judge Mark McEwan saying “high performance cheese”. More info on exact episode here. Possible origin of the phrase here.)

On paper this sounded amazing but it ate a bit too heavy, with the mortadella detracting and distracting from the morels. And with the rich cheese sauce, it became too heavy to enjoy without some fresh acid to balance it out. Get yourself an acid-forward beverage with this one. Or even a low-rent wedge of lemon would help tremendously.

This year’s BC Fire Morel dish with sopressini (“open purse”) pasta sounds great though. Last year, I very much enjoyed the BC Fire Morels with garganelli pasta (like a hand-rolled penne shape) and garlic scape pesto. That dish showcased the morels better than this one.

Prawn Toast ($27) with Malay-style prawn sauce. This was a dud, especially after having  an amazing shrimp toast made with BC sidestripes at Avling in Toronto and a good one on the seasonal menu at DD Mau. The prawn sauce was runny, didn’t cling well, and lacked the beautiful and critical blobs of flavourful oil (as shown on the Published menu photo) that usually dot or flood the surface of great Malaysian curries . The prawn paste was very wet and separated from the toast easily. Even when reassembled, it ate with little of the excitement and flavour that prawn toast usually brings. Minor niggle: no perilla/shiso, which is also shown in their menu photo. I can’t even fake a smile for this one.

Jaegerschnitzel ($44) with burn morel jaegersauce. AFAIK burn morels are like “fire morels”, morels that grow in the aftermath of forest fires like a delicious edible silver lining. I loved being able to taste the morels in their full glory in this dish as opposed to the mortadella-stuffed one. The schnitzel was well-fried but the sauce was thin and sparse, which really hurt this dish’s full potential and impact.

Smoked Wild Sockeye Salmon ($43) with elderflower butter sauce and potato dumplings. Yes, one of us ordered a salmon dish. But this dinner wasn’t all about me, and that’s ok.

This was actually a really good salmon dish. We couldn’t tell that it was smoked, which was perfectly fine by us! I loved the colour on the potato dumplings.

This is the point where the kitchen started to get bogged down with a 30 minute gap between our mains and dessert, but it was peak time (7-8pm), so it’s understandable.

Chocolate ($12) with valrhona manjari chocolate panna cotta with peanut butter semifreddo and banana sorbet. I did not partake but Wicca says it really came together excellently. Delicious.

Caramelized Yogurt ($12) with black currant sorbet and candied sunflower seeds. I again did not partake but the rest of us talked about the contrast between the very tart sorbet and the yogurt worked well.

The complimentary stuff ($0) you get at the end. People loved the caramels.

We were able to order nine dishes in total, and split between the five of us, it came out to $56 per person — totally reasonable. Good responsive service. They didn’t rush us.

I do want to go back to try that other morel dish, and get more Chicken Fried Maitakes all to myself. There was also “tater tots with caviar” on the feature menu so I might have to go back sooner rather than later. That I want to go back is always a good sign.

Happy Hour Quickie: Say Eight at Tacofino Ocho

I didn’t intend to review Tacofino Ocho but I wanted to try their grilled whole rockfish served with tortillas for ages, so you might find this quick post interesting. We ended up also having their big slab of pork belly which was excellent!

Explanation of “say eight” — comedian Brian Regan visits the emergency room and nurse asks him to rate his pain:

Supporting documentation:

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Omakase That Needs Your Appreciation at Sushi Bar Shu in Marpole

Are you looking for that interactive omakase experience? One where you can actually chat with the chef? Sushi Bar Shu (website, Instagram) has it. But a few caveats:

  • If places like Sushi Bar Maumi, Tetsu Sushi Bar, Sushi by Yuji, Matsuzushi (Port Moody), Octopus’ Garden, etc appeal to you, then you’ll appreciate this omakase-only experience. If you need tempura, noodles, rolls, or are price-sensitive, DO NOT COME HERE.
  • Sushi Bar Shu is run by an all-Korean staff. I was sorta skeptical that a Korean chef would be experienced and dedicated enough to provide an omakase experience that was respectful to the Japanese omakase experience, but I came away completely convinced that the chef/owner Kevin Shin is serious. Keep in mind that this place is not Korean sushi (which is its own legitimate thing). This is real-deal Japanese (Edomae) sushi.
  • Because the staff are Korean, you will need to be accomodating to the Korean accent. They are all fluent in English, but you do need some sensitivity in this matter. I could understand about 80% of what the staff said, and that’s coming from having a few Korean friends and family members. If you’re keen on the details of everything you’re eating, you will be rewarded by conversing with the chef, but I felt to be polite I had to let some details slide, lest I ask the same question again and again 😛
  • The experience and style are different from any other omakase place in town. To me this is a huge plus. This restaurant is about exploring their way of doing omakase. You can actually chat with the chefs here. Other places (while great in their own right) aren’t always conducive to chatting.
  • Reservations HIGHLY recommended. For all intents and purposes, they only have nine seats at the bar.
  • They opened in December 2018, and the chef seems intent on improving and tweaking the restaurant and the food. So what I experienced probably will change over time.
  • There is NO liquor license. Yet. Only beverage available is tea.
  • The nigiri here is on the smaller side. It’s about quality over quantity. If you want quantity, I suggest going to Samurai.

Huge thanks to @chengsophia and @thedallah for posting about this place.

Continue reading Omakase That Needs Your Appreciation at Sushi Bar Shu in Marpole

Lunch Quickie: Com Vietnamese in Richmond

It’s hard not to talk about CơM Vietnamese Restaurant without comparing it to the other Vietnamese elephant in the room, Anh + Chi. But after three years after the opening of Anh + Chi, the restaurant landscape has changed. Food costs and rent have only gone up. Paying more for a meal out has become the new normal. But “ethnic” food is still battling the perception that it should always be cheap (see Eddie Huang’s “full fucking price”). Vancouver has gotten used to its cheap but often mediocre hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese restaurants but places like House Special, Anh + Chi, Chau Veggie, CơM, DD Mau Chinatown, Dundas Eat + Drink, and others are slowly trying to carve out a space for “fancier” Vietnamese with cocktails and designer interiors. Whether they are actually offering something new that’s worth the higher price tag or simply presenting the same food in a cleaner, more Instagrammable environment is up for debate.

In a nutshell: good (but not perfect) Vietnamese food in a comfortable space but awkward location. More positives and negatives. Large menu deserves another visit.

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Impressive Kushiyaki & Sushi at Shokunin Izakaya in Calgary

Shokunin follows a theme that I’ve noticed in Calgary — modern Asian food, not necessarily cooked by Asians, being done respectfully at a high level, and embraced by the dining public. Specifically: Anju (every iteration), Foreign Concept, Two Penny, and — now that I’ve finally tried it — Shokunin. I was really impressed by the quality and attention to detail with their kushiyaki/yakitori and nigiri sushi. The best nigiri I’ve had in an izakaya. Lots of attention paid to flavour, technique, and sourcing of ingredients. Pricing is fair considering the labour involved. I met up with local blogger Miss Foodie and homeboy Hungryslif for a quick shared meal before flying back to Vancouver. Read on for the blow-by-blow.

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A Delicious Punch to the Face at Ramen Gaoh in North Burnaby

Moyenchow told me after our meal at Ramen Gaoh that this is by far the best ramen in the area. I agreed. I’d even go so far as to say that this would be worthy even if it was downtown rather than North Burnaby. Along with Grayelf, we beat the lineup on a Sunday morning during their grand opening weekend and came away impressed. Ramen Gaoh specializes in miso ramen, so if that’s your jam it’s worth a visit — especially if you’re in the area.

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Mixing It Up At Kokoro Tokyo Mazesoba on Seymour

Absolutely no relation to Kokoro Ramen (Instagram) on Victoria Drive, Kokoro Tokyo Mazesoba opened up in late September 2018 and has been buzzing all over Instagram ever since. It joins an interesting student-heavy area of downtown, located right beside BCIT Downtown Campus and is close to other places like Gyoza Bar, Ramen Gojiro, Peaceful, Baghdad Cafe, Koala Kebabs, Cartems Donuts, Smile Diner, and Cinara.

I went for lunch twice in two days to see what the fuss was all about. Great to finally have solid mazesoba (soupless mixed noodle) in town. Prices are a touch steep but the place is loud and busy, so I think they’ll do fine with the student crowd (who actually seem have a ton of discretionary spending money when it comes to food).

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